Amazing horse spectacle in Morroco

MORROCAN MARVEL

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A dozen Berber horsemen charge across the grey earth, their rifles raised in unison towards the midday sun. The salvo of gunshots detonate loudly and resonate across the open expanse while the amplified ululation of women blares from speakers behind the dignitaries tents. As the riders circle back towards us, gun-smoke still leaks from their barrels, shrouding us in a fragrant mist. We are less then two hours from the bustling city of Marrakesh in a small village called Mzoudia, but here in the foothills of Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains we are in Berber tribesmen's country and immersed in another world entirely.

By pure chance on a day trip to the coastal town of Essaouira we have stumbled upon a celebration of the Festival Fantasia or "Tbourida", a traditional Moroccan spectacle of horsemanship. Teams of riders, called Sorba, representing different local villages take it in turn to sprint the length of a 200 metre flat expanse while holding, and eventually firing, a traditional gunpowder "Jezail" musket. The Sorba make a first pass, called the "hadda", at a slow gait followed by a trot, to exhibit their equipment and their mastery of beast and weapons. The "talqa" or charge comes next with the ultimate aim is for all horsemen to remain in a tight line as they hurtle down the ground then at the last second discharge their rifles as one thunderous clap.

Dependent on the origin of the team most discharge their firearm upwards but a few do so towards the ground right alongside their mounts head. Not only is there a thunderous explosion but a blast of orange flames escape the muzzle without their trusty steed blinking an eyelid. As for the horses, the breed most traditionally used is the Barb Arab horse, a Northern African breed prized for their great hardiness and stamina. They are an extremely ancient breed, believed to have originated in northern Africa during the 8th century. At the end of the charge, points are awarded for synchronicity and presentation with the winning village granted annual bragging rights and a cash prize. It’s a serious business, in a region where water is scarce, the horses are washed twice a day and lavished upon as a mark of the owners worth. In a conversation with one of the horseman he tells us that around here the horses will be fed long before any money is spent on buying food for the owners.

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But this is no organised, santised show for tourists. The single rope delineating the spectators from the horsemen is a mere suggestion which has long since been ignored. From where we are standing the horses charge near enough to touch, near enough to see the ripple of muscle above their galloping hooves, near enough to smell the gunpowder and feel the heat of the musket fire. We watch as line after line of riders charge down the open ground, there is a pride and aloofness in the riders eyes and the stiffness of their backs. These horses are not to be relegated as working beasts during the rest of the year, they are saved purely for this day.

We move to the assembly area at the starting point of the charges where men are busy pouring black gunpowder from a bag into a waiting line of muskets while a lit cigarette dangles from their lips. After an arbitrarily measured amount of gunpowder is poured in another man tamps it down with a metal rod and a large amount of gusto. No workplace health and safety here as young kids race and play around the the melee of horse and guns.

Meanwhile the next row of Berber horsemen move forward as one, then with a loud battle cry and with rifles raised they stand high in their stirrups to begin the next charge towards fame and glory until the next Fantasia.

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GETTING THERE-

Once in Europe or the UK airfares are very reasonable to fly into Marrakech Menara International Airport. From further afield try to pick up a cheap airfare into anywhere in those areas to connect through to Morocco. Visas are not required for most nationalities for stays of less than 3 months for tourist visits. To be absolutely sure of current requirements check here .

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GETTING AROUND-

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Transport in Morocco is an easily organised task as any accomodation be it a hotel or a Riad (see here for our experience) will have someone that they will be able to arrange at the drop of a Fez for a very reasonable amount of Dirham. Having your own driver is very useful as he will usually be able to speak good English and be able to smooth out any negotiations with third parties along the way. Our driver was very knowledgeable and was flexible enough to fit in with our needs which did change from the original plan considerably.The cost is usually a fixed price for the distance and time you will require the car for and any extra at the end of the day is entirely up to you.

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FINDING FANTASIA-

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This will be the hard part and will require a lot of investigation and/or a lot of luck! Fantasia occurs at a variety of times throughout the year dependent on the area. Through your accommodation you may be able to find out if there is one scheduled during your visit but that will be pot-luck. If you are unlucky enough not to be able to find one of the local festivals during your stay there is a nightly "cultural" show called Chez Ali in Marrakech which has a Fantasia component but the reviews are mixed so you take your chances there as well.

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